Brussels Sprouts with Warm Maple Walnut Vinaigrette

Brussels sprouts have a reputation they mostly earned at other people's tables, where they were boiled gray and served soft. Cooked so they stay bright green and just tender, then tossed while hot with a warm dressing of sherry vinegar, pure maple syrup, Dijon mustard and walnut oil, they become one of the best things on a holiday plate. The maple softens their natural bitterness, the vinegar keeps them lively next to rich turkey and gravy, and a handful of toasted walnuts adds crunch.

Sprouts are at their sweetest after a few hard frosts. In my garden they stand through November, the stalks looking like something from another planet, and I pick them as close to the holiday as I can. Store-bought sprouts are fine too; look for tight, heavy, bright green heads without yellow outer leaves.

Blanching or roasting

There are two good ways to cook the sprouts for this dish, and they give different results.

On a holiday the oven is almost always taken by the turkey, so I blanch. Boiling the sprouts in well-salted water seasons them all the way through, and the bright color holds on the buffet. Roasting is lovely when you have room: toss halved sprouts with a little olive oil and salt and roast at 425°F (220°C) for 20 to 25 minutes, turning once, until browned at the edges. The dressing goes on hot either way.

Prepping the sprouts

Trim the dry stem end and pull off any loose or yellowed outer leaves. Small sprouts, under an inch across, can stay whole; cut an X a quarter inch deep into the base so the core cooks as fast as the leaves. Anything bigger should be halved through the stem, which cooks more evenly and gives the dressing more surface to cling to. Try to keep the pieces roughly the same size.

The warm vinaigrette

The dressing is mixed cold and warmed gently just before tossing. Walnut oil has a deep, toasty flavor but a low smoke point and goes stale quickly, so warm it only until the jar feels warm in your hand, never until it sizzles. Buy it in a small bottle and keep it in the refrigerator once opened. A pinch of freshly grated nutmeg sounds odd in a dressing, but it is the quiet note that makes this taste like the holidays.

From the recipe box

Brussels sprouts with warm maple walnut vinaigrette

Serves 8 as a side

Prep

20 min

Cook

15 min

Total

35 min

Show amounts in

US cups & spoons metric

Sprouts

• 2 lb900 g Brussels sprouts (about 8 cups), trimmed, large ones halved
• 2 tbsp30 ml kosher salt for the cooking water
• 1 cup100 g walnuts, coarsely chopped

Maple walnut vinaigrette

• 4 tbsp60 ml sherry vinegar
• 4 tbsp60 ml pure maple syrup
• 1 tbsp15 ml Dijon mustard
• 1/2 cup120 ml walnut oil
• 1 pinch1 pinch freshly grated nutmeg
• 1/2 tsp2.5 ml fine salt, plus more to taste
• 1/4 tsp1 ml freshly ground black pepper

Method

1. Heat the oven to 350°F (175°C), spread the walnuts on a baking sheet and toast 8 to 10 minutes, until fragrant and a shade darker; set aside.
2. Whisk the sherry vinegar, maple syrup and mustard in a small saucepan, then whisk in the walnut oil, nutmeg, salt and pepper.
3. Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil and add the kosher salt.
4. Add the sprouts and boil 5 to 7 minutes, until a knife slides into the thickest one with a little resistance and they are still bright green.
5. While the sprouts cook, set the vinaigrette over low heat and warm it for 1 to 2 minutes, just until warm to the touch, whisking.
6. Drain the sprouts well in a colander and shake off the excess water.
7. Tip the hot sprouts into a warm serving bowl, pour over the warm vinaigrette and toss to coat.
8. Taste, adjust the salt and pepper, scatter the toasted walnuts over the top and serve at once.

Notes from the kitchen

• To roast instead, toss halved sprouts with 2 tbsp olive oil and roast at 425°F (220°C) for 20 to 25 minutes before dressing.
• The vinaigrette keeps a week in the refrigerator; whisk it again before warming.

Doing it ahead for a crowd

The holiday version of this dish gets almost all of its work done the day before.

1. Two days ahead: toast the walnuts and store them airtight at room temperature. Mix the vinaigrette and refrigerate it in a jar.
2. The day before: trim and halve the sprouts. Blanch them for 4 to 5 minutes, a minute or two less than usual, then drain and plunge them into a big bowl of ice water to stop the cooking and set the color. Drain them again, spread them on towels to dry, and refrigerate in a covered container or zip-top bags.
3. Thirty minutes before dinner: bring the vinaigrette to room temperature.
4. Ten minutes before dinner: reheat the sprouts. Toss them in a wide skillet over medium-high heat with a tablespoon of butter or olive oil for 4 to 5 minutes until hot through, or drop them back into boiling water for 1 minute and drain. Warm the vinaigrette, toss, add the walnuts and serve.

Reheated sprouts should be steaming hot all the way through. If they sit on a buffet, keep them in a warm chafing dish or on a warming tray, and do not leave them out longer than 2 hours.

Scaling the quantities

Plan on about 1/4 pound of sprouts per person when there are several other sides, and a little more for a smaller dinner where vegetables play a bigger part.

For 16 or more, blanch in batches of no more than 2 pounds at a time so the water returns to the boil quickly. Crowding the pot means the sprouts stew and lose their color. For reheating, use two skillets side by side, or warm them in a covered roasting pan in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 15 minutes once the turkey is out and resting.

Variations

Swap half the walnuts for toasted pecans or hazelnuts. Crisp, crumbled bacon is a popular addition, scattered over the top at the last minute. A few dried cranberries add color and a sweet, tart chew. If you cannot find walnut oil, use a fruity olive oil and add a few more toasted walnuts, chopped fine, to carry the nutty flavor.

Serving

This side sits beside turkey, roast pork or a baked ham equally well, and it is sturdy enough for a buffet. A little extra vinaigrette in a pitcher is welcome. If you want the same maple warmth at dessert, the maple pecan pie closes the meal on the same note. More holiday vegetables and cold-weather dishes are gathered under The Seasonal Table, and the rest of the monthly recipes are in the recipe archive. Bring the bowl to the table while the sprouts still steam.